Richardson’s Delicate Fish Gives Instant Fried Seafood a Good Reputation


Is Richardson’s new Tricky Fish site, in the CityLine mixed-use development, a proto-channel presented by the same people who gave us the Razzoo one? Yes it is.

Considering her eponymous dish is essentially a plate of smothered tilapia and shrimp, could you cite the menu at Tricky Fish for lack of imagination? Of course you could.

But blowing this spot on the basis of surface-level gripes is a big mistake, because when you dig a little deeper Tricky Fish, which opened last week in the first phase of CityLine, shows a lot more personality than the name suggests, and it impresses at the bar with superb handcrafted cocktails.

Then again, this place was always going to be judged on its seafood merits, and they pulled off one of the best mid-level marine meal plans at $ 12 a plate we’ve seen in quite some time.

First of all, Tricky Fish gives you options. The facility, featuring a narrow patio on State Street, is divided inside between its walk-in counter for quick take-out service and a modest seating area describing the biggest attraction, the bar.

Sure, any place can do take out, but these people devote almost half of their space to streamlining the lunch rush, which makes sense when you’re next door neighbors with a resort. State Farm Insurance office space of 710,000 square feet.

The bar is certainly not the main attraction because of the flash or the glamor. No, you are still in a friendly little corner called Tricky Fish. This is the main attraction for drinks concocted by head bartender Jason Trinh.

Trinh’s Christmas drink menu, which is still being finalized, sparkles. (Not literally.) The powdered sugar on the rim of a mason jar filled with Mistletoe Punch sparkles a bit, but that’s it.

He’s making an old-fashioned smoky medium peach, for which the staff at Tricky Fish actually light a branch of red oak before trapping the smoke in, yes, another mason jar. The TX Whiskey and Angostura Bitters are blended separately before finding temporary accommodation in the smoked pot for a few minutes, leaving you wondering if you’ll really be able to make a difference in taste for all the painstaking presentation therein. is associated.

Spoiler alert: you’ll taste the difference.

The dessert version is Trinh’s Frosty Pecan, a whiskey-based after-dinner drink that’s a bit creamier with orange bitters and topped with crispy pecans that sits on a thick, frothy head to remind you that you are, in fact, drinking your dessert.

Happy hour is from 5 p.m. until closing five days a week, and there are great deals to be had, even if you’re almost in Plano.

But somewhere in there, I hope you ate too. Tricky Fish relies on familiar dishes to keep your attention, and it’s pure, savvy execution that gets the job done. The Fried Calamari ($ 10.50) comes with fried banana chili slices, and it’s a perfect pairing.

The Mac and Cheese ($ 11.50) is an appetizer in itself, mixing creamy Tillamook Cheddar with chicken or shrimp. The BLT Fried Oyster ($ 10.75) is served with a tartar sauce and bacon jam, infusing a light touch of sweetness. Almost everything comes with what has to be Richardson’s best fried okra, and if it doesn’t, swap your fries for that. It is cut lengthwise and lightly fried with just enough Cajun seasoning. Simple, but nice.

But the perfect example of what Tricky Fish does well is their signature dish, which is just a fillet of tilapia on dirty rice, topped with stewed shrimp. It’s plated with care, seasoned with care and that effort is probably what makes all the appeal here. It’s quick and laid back at Tricky Fish, sure, but you can tell they care about the food they serve.

Delicate Fish, 1251 State St., Richardson


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